Further on up the Malaysian Jungle

Logistical challenges at the Simpon

We were feeling so sacked out by now that we didn't feel like doing anything else for the rest of the afternoon. However, Izat used his persuasive skills, and cajoled us into taking the short boat trip. And we were so happy that we followed his advice. This boat trip, on a boat even smaller and narrower than the one that had brought us to Taman Negara the previous day went upstream on the river for about half an hour. The whole journey was very charming... the boat cutting through the steady stream of water making the characteristic sound as it did so, the river winding its way between forest mass, and best of all, the entire journey being conducted in the shade of the canopy made by the overhanging branches of the trees on the river bank. Although both of us dozed off for a bit during the ride, we were wide awake when we reached our disembarkation point. From there, we trekked for about 700m to arrive at the Simpon - a point in the river where there are large rocks that make the water cascade over them while forming pools where folks can take a dip or play around and swim too. Unfortunately, we had come to Taman Negara somewhat unprepared in this department and were consequently left to sit at the water's edge and check out the scenery for a while before making our way back to the boat and eventually returning back to the resort.

Later that evening, we spent our time reading our books, working on our pictures from Africa, and having dinner.

We went to sleep to the sound of crickets and cicadas, and awoke the following day to the melodious chirps of birds and roosters... quite fitting, given that it was Chinese New Year's Day and the start of the year of the Rooster.

Yet another hike in the jungle enthrals us

The plan for the day was to go on another hike. After breakfast, we found Izat waiting for us and not too much later, we were in dense jungle once again. Our destination today was one of the machaans built for observing animals. Needless to say this machaan was close to a watering hole - which would be the reason that animals would come there in the first place. Our objective, however, was not to observe animals, because we didn't have the luxury of time that an activity such as that requires. We were content to walk through the forest and then return a few hours later. The walk was in a portion of the jungle in a direction opposite from the one we took the previous day. Through the thick jungle, Izat proved to be an able guide - pointing out the special flora and fauna to us ignoramuses. We saw extremely tall trees, and even longer creepers. We saw typically tropical plants such as rattan with its vine snaking its way not just on the forest floor, but also vertically up along the trees (and then down again). Then there were the ferns and any number of other epiphytic plants that were growing "with a little help from their friends" - they grew on trees. In fact, so deep was the partnership between trees and the lesser plants that rare was the tree that did not have any other plant growing on it. The roots of these trees often emerged above the forest floor, forming a thick labyrinthine network of firmware that gave our feet the necessary foothold as we navigated the forest. Of course, there was the general low-level shrub all over, leaving little space uncovered. So dense was the jungle that it was not just shady, but positively dim in many parts of the jungle that we walked through. In the low plant life category was to be seen several types of fungi and mushrooms... in a variety of colours and shapes. And after all this, if there was still any place left to fill, it was occupied, in many places, by the huge fallen trunks of trees that had died. A vibrant forest is not all life: it is life as well as death, and there were lots of such fallen trees that we crossed on our trek that day. We noticed that leaves on the low shrubbery (which grew as high as our chests) were stained by dried mud and Izat explained that this was the dried up slush from the flood waters of the river - flooding usually happens in the rainy season, but the extent of flooding did leave us wondering. We were trekking quite close to the river, but at least 10-15 metres higher than its current level. On our trek, we crossed numerous tiny pedestrian bridges - of the concrete and canopied kind - these were not over the river, but over the streams that were joining the river. We didn't spot much by way of wildlife... a gecko, a dozen partridges, and half a dozen birds probably sums it up. One of the birds we spotted and observed with our binoculars was a woodpecker while it was busy pecking wood.

All in all, a nice gentle trek, which got over a few hours after it began, and that saw us back in the resort by lunch. Post-lunch, we did some water activity. In a boat similar to the one we had used the previous afternoon, we went upstream on the other river that forms the sangam at our resort. The objective was: rapids shooting. Yes, there are some rocky stretches further upstream on the river, and our driving crew negotiated them with skill and dexterity... the afternoon sun was beating down on us, and we were having a great time being splashed with water as we went upstream for about 45 mins or so. Along the way, we spotted an Orang Asli (aboriginal) settlement, and another tourist guest house. There were also a few tents set up on the miniscule beaches along the way - these belonged to holidayers like us (they were, of course, being more outdoorsy than we were) and were fishing in the waters.

Once we returned to the resort, it was back to our books, trip report, drink and dinner. And after all of that, it was back to sleep, on this last day of our holiday.

And back in KL

The following morning, after a good breakfast, we took our boats back to the Tembeling Jetty. While the journey upstream had lasted 2.5 hours, it was only 2 hours in the opposite direction. And while we waited for our bus from KL to arrive at the jetty, we finished lunch. We were back in our hotel in KL by 4:30 PM, and having checked in, we set out again - first for a quick snack at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf cafe in Bintang, and then, by taxi to Masjid India, KL's own Little India. We were looking for Indian music and movies, and shopped around in a few shops there. Masjid India is a buzzing and colourful place, with the sights and sounds of India wherever you cast your eyes and we had a good time there, before taking yet another taxi to the Mid-Valley MegaMall... a huge shopping mall near Bangsar. Our objective: dinner at Annalakshmi. Of course, if you go to a mall, you can't walk out without buying something, right? So, we also shopped a little bit. There were special stalls that had been set up for Chinese New Year and we spent a lot of time there watching the artists painting or drawing. But the highlight of the evening was Annalakshmi - an Indian restaurant that serves south Indian food. This place is unique because it does not have a rate card. And neither does it have regular staff. It is run on a voluntary basis by a dedicated bunch of people who have regular jobs during the day and also cook and/or serve guests at the restaurant in the evenings. At the end of the meal, however, you are not presented with an invoice. Instead, you pay whatever you think is appropriate - the surplus goes to charity. Given that the restaurant has been around for at least 4 years (I was last there 4 years ago), I guess patrons do pay up enough to cover all the costs! The food was outstanding - we ate so much, and so fast! And after dinner, another taxi ride brought us back to our hotel.

The following day was the last day of our Malaysian holiday - after breakfast, we walked to the Petronas Towers - and checked out the shops and cafes over there... finally ending up at the Dome outlet for lunch. We checked out of the hotel in the afternoon, and took the KLIA Express to the airport, and later that evening, were back home after a short, lovely and another memorable holiday.

How did the holiday begin? | Check out our pictures from Malaysia | Wanderlust

ã Vixabs Vacations Unlimited

May 17, 2006